A famous Kentucky bourbon has the strap line “a spectacle of the senses”, and my first trip to this corner of the Bluegrass state is just that.

I arrive in the pre-dawn darkness of the back stretch  stables of Keeneland Racetrack and the first sensation is the smell of hundreds of blue-blooded thoroughbreds preparing for Breeders’ Cup 46. That musty smell of horse, bedding and hay hangs in the misty, cool Lexington air. Coffee revives after the late night flight in from Heathrow to Cincinnati as horses are trotted up under the watchful eyes of HISA vets.

The next sensation is the stunning sight of the sun rising over this spiritual home of the racehorse stateside. An array of yellow, orange and reds form the backdrop to morning exercise of both the training track and main racecourse as the work riders emerge to give their charges one of their final morning exercises before the big racedays on Friday and Saturday.

The sound of horses galloping under restraint fills the air, nostrils giving that metronomic chord as their hooves lightly skip over the tan brown dirt. The sunlight allows the browns, reds and russets of this beautiful tree-lined racecourse in the fall to add further colour to the scene.

The European horses and their handlers appear well in the chilly morning air - Ger Lyons is with Red Letter ahead of her probable last start before a date with Justify; Shane Foley preferring to let the “quirky” Hotazhell be ridden early by his regular work rider. The legendary Ballydoyle battalion are out in force with York-winning juveniles Sun Goddess and Haffner catching the eye. Forever Young is literally exercising in the land of the rising sun!

As the training action on the track comes to a close, it is time to taste a lavish Kentucky breakfast - hams, omelettes and sausages (well, Americans can’t really do sausage) are part of a wonderful spread laid out by the ever hospitable Breeders’ Cup team. In one of the more bizarre moments of the morning, Aidan and Ryan are being mesmerised by a Kentucky card magician while enjoying their breakfast!

Keeneland’s famous track “pony” Harley

So the final sense is touch, for that I had the privilege of meeting Keeneland’s famous track “pony” Harley - if a thoroughbred is a Ferrari then Harley is a tank - spotty, chunky and huge, but he was content to be petted and patted in the stunning Keeneland parade ring after he had kept all those flighty racehorses in order.

So with all the senses stimulated and the excitement and anticipation building for the Breeders’ Cup, it just remains to taste that famous Woodford bourbon this evening.

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