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Janja Garnbret conquered Bibliographie. Her next climb: unprecedented Olympic heights

Janja Garnbret made history on June 6 by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie, a 115-foot route on a limestone cliff in Céüse, France.

Her sights are now set on another unprecedented feat — capturing two Olympic gold medals in climbing at one Games in Los Angeles in 2028.

Garnbret, a 27-year-old from Slovenia, already won the combined at the Tokyo Games and the Paris Games, the first two Olympics to include her sport.

“After both Olympics, I felt I like to call it a black period or something,” she said. “I felt really unmotivated. I asked myself if I will ever be able to top again anything. Everybody prepares you for the competition, but no one really prepares you for what comes after. … I just needed to wait for the motivation to come back.”

Climbing had one competition in Tokyo — an event combining the disciplines of speed, boulder and lead. For Paris, it was split into two events — a combined event for boulder and lead plus an event for speed only.

In LA, each of the three disciplines will have its own set of medals.

“I think this is what we all wanted right from the beginning,” Garnbret said.

Garnbret began climbing whatever she could grasp by age 7 — trees, closets and doors. She has competed internationally in boulder and lead since age 14.

She trained speed for the Tokyo Games, then dropped it from her repertoire afterward once it was no longer part of the Olympic combined event.

In LA, the women’s boulder and lead semifinals are back-to-back days, followed by a day off, and then back-to-back days of the finals.

Garnbret has no preference between boulder and lead, having won the most recent world title in each in 2025.

But this year, her focus was on Bibliographie. She recently toured the U.S., promoting a film documenting her ascent.

She said that only five people previously scaled it — all men. She began her climb two weeks after the Paris Olympics. It took 21 sessions spread across the next two years to complete it.

“I fell asleep thinking about the route,” she said. “I woke up thinking about the route.”

Yet she still competed off and on in the Olympic disciplines on the World Series circuit in 2026. In five starts, she won three times and was runner-up the other two behind Zelia Avesou, a 22-year-old Frenchwoman, and Annie Sanders, a 19-year-old Texan.

Women that young would have come through the ranks already knowing that climbing was an Olympic sport, unlike when Garnbret launched her career.

“I do feel challenged,” Garnbret said. “Competition is getting, of course, harder and harder.”

Garnbret hasn’t decided yet whether she will continue on for the Brisbane 2032 Games.

She does seek another challenge, though. Bibliographie is a 9b+ climb, the second-most difficult grade. American Brooke Raboutou, the 2024 Olympic combined silver medalist behind Garnbret, became the first woman to achieve a 9b+ in 2025 when she did Excalibur in Italy.

Garnbret wants to become the first woman to do a 9c, the hardest climb, of which there are five in the world.

While globetrotting, Garnbret, who has one million Instagram followers, has noticed an uptick in the popularity of her sport.

“Every time I meet someone, that person climbs, or knows someone who climbs,” she said.

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