Brendan Venter, glass in hand, is holding court.

Saracens’ ‘wine consultant’ is undoubtedly in his element as he paces around the home changing room at StoneX Stadium, discussing his favourite subject away from rugby.

‘The object of the evening is to have an adventure and to hopefully have some of you fall in love with wine,’ explains the knowledgeable South African, whose audience includes his players Owen Farrell, Ben Earl and George Martin and members of the media, including Daily Mail Sport.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon is the base of most Bordeaux wines,’ Venter continues. ‘In rugby terms, it’s the set-piece and defence of a team. The basics. If you don't have that, you have nothing. The Merlot is softer, more feministic. It's the attack. Cabernet Franc is the kicking – getting the team in the right areas.

Then we have two others – Petit Verdot and Malbec. Those two are "the s*** people don’t see” – the things that keep groups and teams together.”’

Now back working in Prem Rugby for a second time, Venter, 56, is trying to perfect what he calls his ‘Saracens blend’.

His ideal recipe for success, as he outlines, is made crystal clear to the likes of Farrell and Co on a poster on the wall of the entrance of their home changing room at the StoneX.

It was there where Venter and the Saracens hierarchy of owner Dominic Silvester, chairman Neil Golding and chief executive Ed Coetzee went on the charm offensive on Tuesday night. 

It has been a turbulent start to the season for the London club both on and off the field. Venter’s return to replace the immensely successful Mark McCall as director of rugby was then followed by the club being fined for his eagerness to avoid media duties. 

Saracens subsequently changed Venter’s job title, first to ‘head of rugby culture and wine consultant' and then 'head of culture and technical director’, prompting criticism that could easily have been avoided. 

Earlier this month, Saracens sacked academy prospect Totoa Auvaa for his part in a street fight in St Albans, just months after he’d been embroiled in a brawl with former England cricket captain Ben Stokes and Gus Atkinson.

On the field, Venter has seen his team suffer disappointing defeats to Sale and Connacht. 

Saracens have been inconsistent. But in Venter, they have a boss who isn’t for turning. He is sticking to his guns, even if he expresses remorse over how his temporary ‘wine consultant’ appointment was handled. 

‘In retrospect, I would probably have done it differently,’ he says. ‘But my motive was not to be difficult and obnoxious.’

Spending time with Venter, two things quickly become clear. He is not deliberately obtuse, nor indeed rude. Also, he really loves wine. His passion for it burns brightly as he talks, engaging the room and pouring out eight red wine samples from a table stacked with bottles.

They have all come from Golding’s cellar at a not-insignificant cost.

‘It is going to be a blind tasting,’ Venter says, before turning to Farrell. ‘Why do we taste wine blind, Owen? It’s because we are so subjective as human beings. We can't help it.

‘Wine is like rugby. You can get to know it, explore it. But you’re never going to beat it. There are always better winemakers and rugby coaches than you. I know I’ll never master either!’

Silvester, Golding and Coetzee clearly have faith in Venter’s rugby knowledge, even if the man himself admits he’ll never crack the sport’s code. Saracens’ inviting of members of the media to a wine tasting night in the club’s inner sanctum saw them lean into the ‘wine consultant’ controversy. 

No expense was spared. Fillet steak and chips was served, followed by lemon posset. All washed down with what felt like half of Golding’s collection of reds.

Bizarrely, the evening took place on the same day Silvester released a strong statement criticising a national newspaper report and defending the work of Coetzee.

It felt like the dreaded managerial vote of confidence.

There have been many changes in the club’s backroom team and a new wave of players is now coming through to replace those who have been Saracens, England and Lions greats – the likes of Farrell, Maro Itoje and Jamie George. It is, undoubtedly, a new era at Saracens. Though, as ever, there is only one demand – to win.

‘We need to build again,’ Venter says. ‘We were so good for so long with superstars. They’re at the end of their time and we need a new group. They’re not going to fall from the air, so we need to develop them. Losses happen. We get on with it. Totoa’s thing was really well dealt with by Ed.

‘We saw the evidence. Totoa was wrong. We’d given him a chance. It was decisive. I actually think it was a victory for the club because Ed dealt with it really well. I don’t think he could have dealt with it better.’

Farrell, Martin and Earl were given the licence to have a glass or two of red with the media, despite the season being in its early stages. 

Farrell says: ‘Mark was here for a long time and now we’re looking to see where we can take it next. Brendan set his stall out very clearly with a meeting. 

'It was in there (the changing room) and we did the same thing with the wine tasting and then we went out to train! He’s been very clear and it’s about what we’re doing now – not about what’s been before.

‘Of course, it's feasible to compete again. We've got a great squad at the minute. We're doing things in a bit of a different way from what we've been used to. We feel like that will benefit us in the long run and we'll get up to speed pretty quickly.’

In Tomos Williams, Martin and Alfie Barbeary, Saracens have recruited well and they are still third in the PREM table ahead of Sunday’s derby with capital rivals Harlequins. That said, there has been significant turbulence at the club in the past month, some of it self-inflicted.

‘Losses happen,’ Venter says. ‘You either learn from a loss or you cry. When we played Sale, Alex Sanderson taught us a couple of lessons. Last weekend (Connacht and former England coach) Stuart Lancaster was cleverer than us. We are a good side and we should have won that game.

‘We’ll learn from it and that’s why it’s value. We don’t see the bigger picture in rugby today. The bigger picture is developing people over a longer period to try and win a Premiership.

‘The now is the result and when you get obsessed with only this, you’ll never have a vision of having a culture. It’s just so short-sighted.’ 

Venter’s planned rotation of his side and insistence on giving youth its chance is with the long-term success of Saracens in mind. He is certainly a fascinating character – methodical, intense, passionate. 

But, having sipped wine with him, I have to say not unlikeable. Many perceive him as gruff and antagonistic, a perception that has been accentuated by his reluctance to do interviews in the wake of past fines for comments made to the media. It prompts an obvious next question. Does Venter want to be liked?

‘I’m really good with that. I’m not on any social media,’ he says. ‘Someone told me there was a mean article about the club. But I don’t know that. I need to respect all human beings.

‘I'm quite thick-skinned. I do so few s*** things in my life. I just don’t do them. The analogy of the taxi driver is a great one. You can get cross with them, but it’s their job to drive fast and cut you up because they want to get to where they’re going as quickly as possible for their work.

‘It’s the media’s job to be inquisitive and find stories. I used to get cross with that. It’s the same with referees. But I looked at myself and I said: “I’m being affected. It’s stealing my joy.” I’m growing as a human being. There’s no animosity. I’m super relaxed, super easy.’

And with that, his hosting duties done, Venter puts on his overcoat and cap and heads off into the night. Whatever you think of him and his PREM return, one thing is for sure.

With Venter around, things are never dull.